What are you guys using?
Right now the best I have found is a bar top coating like the ones you see with pictures on. On a lure it doesn't really stay on thick but don't leave baits hanging over something you really want to keep clean. It drips pretty bad. The only problem is its extremely buoyant. You guys have something that's more neutral buoyant wise that is pretty tough?

I believe it is discussed here:
http://texasfishingforum.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/10797154/#Post10797154

There are lots of good dip type finish coats so I'm speaking strictly from my experiences. For dipped finishes AC1315 seems to be the most popular amoungst folks on this site.

From my experiences:
AC1315 is a little thin so 1 dip may not be thick enough. It tends to react poorly with some plastics but is generally pretty stable and moderately durable.
MCU makes a nice finish but its just plain nasty (hazardous) and difficult to work with.
Eagle Supreme sealer...avoid it...its unstable, doesn't handle multiple dips well and chips badly.

*All 3 will cause acrylic paints to wrinkle and craze if not applied correctly*

Personally I prefer good old tried and true Devcon 2 part epoxy. Done right it doesn't add much weight, creates a beautiful clear tough finish. I'm told by professional lure builders that EnviroTex lite is best for use on multiple lures since it has a longer working time than D2T and still has the toughness and clarity of D2T.

*some folks say D2T will eventually chip around the hook hangers. I haven't experienced that problem...but its worth mentioning.*

If you're having issues with the clear finish running and collecting on the back hook hanger...cut some very light wire, about .22-.24 gauge paddle wire works nicely, to about 2 inch lengths. Make a hook and put the hook thru the back hanger. The excess will run off onto the wire and not mess up your paint job. Hope this helps.

I use ac1315 4 dips 8 hours apart in the cooler weather and let hang to dry. 4 coats will give you a very durable crystal clear finish and will hold up nicely.

Createx opaque white and yellow are not real good to use with ac1315 it will wrinkle the paint unless you cut those colors with pledge floor shine as a thinner.

I used a LOT of Devcon 2 ton or similar 2 part epoxies to top coat spinner blades when I was making salmon spinners.

Just mix it up, cut it with a little denatured alcohol and brush it on. You're going to have a work time of around 20 minutes depending on temperature.

One key was to let it set up and then put in the oven at the lowest heat setting for about 30 minutes.

I'm trying some Seal Mate Clear-Seal right now on some slabs. I know one local lure maker has been using it as a top coat with good success.

Couldn't find the high gloss locally but picked up a gallon of the gloss at Walmart for $22.

Dipped some slabs and used a brush on some. Going to see how they come out.

Thanks guys. I will try some of these, especially the wire off the back so the excess will run down.

Does the ac1315 clear the crank bait bills real good? And how does it work with top water baits and jerky baits? I have only done a few jerky baits but they won't stay even close to suspending with what I use.

REX
How did the seal mate clear-seal work out for you on the slabs? Did it discolor the slabs finish at all?

The Seal Mate works perfectly with the slabs. Drys a good clear gloss. I clear coated a few more today. I'm really pleased with how it works.

I put some 3D eyes on some of the slabs. Normally you have to glue those things on or they just fall off. This clear coat holds them TIGHT!

Yes AC1315 does clear plastic. Its solvent based and seems to do a good job of clearing and sealing the hard plastic lures (including the diving bills) I've used it with. I don't think its going to help make a bait suspend since its very thin and adds almost no weight to the bait. You might try a different finish that will allow you to control the thickness and weight of the clear coat or experiment around with hooks and split rings to get your lures to suspend just right.

Clear Seal looks like it would be a good topcoat based on the description...non yellowing, brush or spray, cleans up with soap&water, waterproof, scratch resistant, acrylic based. Seems like it would be great on jigs, spinners and wooden lures. It would be worth testing on hard plastics just to see how it adheres to a painted lure and if it has any stability issues when in contact with other plastics...soft plastic lures, lure boxes, etc.

So where can I buy vexcon ac1315 sealer or Seal Mate Clear Seal?

AC 1315 appears to be mail order only. Just Google it.

The Seal Mate...Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes. Walmart has the lowest price by almost $10.

Good alternative to AC1315. Still solvent based so it might craze some paints, otherwise looks good. Many lure makers use this stuff.
DiamondFinish

I use ac1315 on jerkbaits period on 110 jerkbaits weight had got to be precise, I use a digital scale on mine each step of the process. On mine I go with 3 dips on full foiled or base coated baits, 4 dips on ghost baits. You also need to check the weight on the rings and hooks to makes sure your not adding to much weight. Built up ready to fish I want my 110 to be at 13.8 grams and the 110+1 to be at 14.1 grams. When I tried using d2t I couldn't get a consistent weight on each bait. The ac1315 will add less weight and a more consistent weight from bait to bait.

This is just how I do it, not sayin its the only way, but has worked best for me. Also if I use d2t on a crankbait I leave the bill alone and after the d2t is cure I dip the bill 2 coats in ac1315.