My 2011 Ecoboost has a very slow drip coming from where the seals are just before the u-joint. Any idea how much it cost to fix this? Drove 1,000 miles this weekend through Ozark mountains and tranny temp was normal (around 196-203). Thanks.

Drop by a reputable tranny repair joint and get them to give you an estimate. Depending on mileage, if it's just the pan gasket, you might want to just have the tranny fluid changed and a new gasket installed. Shouldn't be all that much.

How slow is very slow?

Had a pickup that leaked a little out of the rear seal in the tail housing. There was always a drip on it, but never made a spot on the ground or anything. I never worried about it never fixed it and it was never a problem.

Hackler Transmission says its the seal. About $125. Whew~

Dealer would probably say you need a new trans, $4,000.

Mine was in the shop for 3-days and they could not find it. Took it to another dealer and they fixed it. They have had issues with their suppliers and had to replace part of the housing because the seals fail due to an improper fit. Mine also shifts erratically, the drive by wire on the Ecoboost is lousy in my opinion.

Agreed. The shifting sometimes kick a little like it changes its mind midshift. I notice it happens when I am going down hill in the parking garage. But I wouldn't trade this truck for anything. I love it.

I took mine back and they said the transmission had to be "re-timed" not sure what they did but it worked and lasted about 4 months. The weird behavior came back a week ago. I have the same truck, same color as yours.

Sorry I'm late on this but just read this. I have a 2010 F150 XLT. I know it is not the same as yours but I had transmission leaks for 3 years. I brought it in each time and it would hold and then lead again a year later. The culprit was cold weather and the bulkhead connector. After some research, I found out about the bulkhead - a Ford known problem with a TB (Technical Bulletin) on it. As I recall it has to be the orange one. I actually brought the research to them because just the seal was being replaced the first two times and the third time the wrong bulkhead connector color.

I know I should be real upset with them but they worked with me all the way through with no charges, even when out of warranty. Should they have known, yes. We've gotten to know each other well over the years. I get VIP treatment when I go for regularly scheduled maintenance from the ordeal. I'm just happy there was a real resolution to this problem for me.

If the leak is at the back by the drive shaft ( front u-joint area ) pull the drive shaft clean out the inside of the yoke with b-12 and after it dries out put some black silicone down in the end of the yoke. Replace rear tail seal and push the drive line back in and bottom it out - silicone will come out around the yoke cup seal and fix the leak. Sometimes you get a worse leak on a hill. Don't push it in too fast or bottom it out really hard.