The latest addition.. I added a Humminbird 999 to the bow on an adjustable height pedestal. That lets whoever is in the front seat adjust it for the best visibility. All cables go to the plug on the back of the FF. The power for the FF comes from a deck plug that is mounted on the side of the black module that houses the trolling motor plug and the tilt/trim switch. I had to do it that way so that all of the cables go with the trolling motor when it is removed. it's mounted on a quick mount because I trailer my boat in a semi secure yard at a local marina. The trolling motor is a Riptide 80# with I-Pilot Link and is now linked to the 999 on the bow , when the Ethernet components come in, the 999, and the trolling motor will be linked via ethernet to the 1199 on the console.

I like it. I'd like to know how it works out for you. I will sometimes wack my trolling motor when I am sidearming a carolina rig. I just wonder if it would get in the way at times. What did you do to keep it from rotating in the wind? It is something that I might want to look at adding to my boat, especially since I only have an 898 and poor eyesight.

In the photo it is at a high position. It will lower to where the collar is. I just got it installed, so I don't know if it's going to rotate in the wind or if that will be an issue. No one is going to be constantly looking at the FF and it's close enough to the front fishing chair(not shown) to manually adjust the position. If movement turns out to be an issue, I'll go with a screw-in pedestal and pin the top. The bracket holding the FF has a 3/4" aluminum rod that just slips into the pedestal post.
I may go with a screwin post anyway if I can find a base that's the right size. The base I used is a Bass Pro brand and is one of the sloppiest manufactured piece of equipment I've ever seen.

The more that I look at it the more that I am thinking of copying you. I turn mine on when I drop the trolling motor and never touch it because I am lazy and don't want to bend over. I never bought a ram mount because I felt that they were never worth the price just to raise it a few inches. Thanks for posting.

I also think Ram mounts are a little pricey for what they do. To me, a FF is not very useful sitting on the deck when you are in the chair. I think the adjustable height pedestal is going to be the way to go. I'm going to Buchanan Thursday and I'll get to try it out.

I like the mount and the cup holder.

You could add the RC-1 remote and not have to touch the unit at all.

Looked at that but don't need one. The adjustable pedestal lets me put the unit within arms reach. I've already got more stuff on here than I'm probably going to be able to keep up with. LOL

Man thats the way to go beats any bass boat anyday

So much more comfortable

The RC-1 is nice but I already have a remote for the Terrova, a remote for the Gobee stanchion mount spotlight and I just don't want another remote plus I could use it closer to read the screen a little better. Maybe if I had the ilink, that would be more handy for me.

I think I am going to make a universal remote to control all of my boat electronics instead of looking like a rapper with bling hanging around my neck.

Gave the bow FF mount a test drive yesterday. As I (and Bobby) suspected, it was a problem with rotating in the wind. I need a way to lock the pedestal in the base, I'm using a Bass Pro base( extremely poor quality), but it fits in the space I wanted to use. I also threw away my receipt so I couldn't return it. I can drill and tap the top of the pedestal for a thumb screw and that would allow me to position the screen where I want it ans then lock it in place at the top, but the pedestal still swivels in the base. Anyone have a suggestion on how to lock the bottom. I really don't want to go buy a screw in base and pedestal. That stuff is expensive. Maybe one of you mechanical minded dudes has an idea. The pedestal has to be removable.

Grind or machine a keyway or flat side on the pedestal and make the base match.

Good idea, but I need something simpler than that, I'm not a machinist.

Ok, how about a small bracket similar to the one that holds your graph with a slot on each side facing up screwed down to the base. Drill a hole through the pedestal and put a small Dow or bolt through that will drop in the slots....

Simpler yet get a small piece of aluminum angle file a slot in the edge and screw it to the base behind the pedestal. Get a longer screw with a jam nut and replace the existing one at the bottom of pedestal and let it sit in the slot you filed in the angle... Easy Peasy

Problem solved.. This may be similar to what Allen was describing. The top of the pedestal is drilled and tapped for a thumb screw that will tighten against the inserted rod keeping it from turning and making it adjustable

The bottom bracket screws to the pedestal in two places to keep it from rotating and the other end of the bracket attaches to the deck with a 1/4-20 thumb screw. When I install it, I'll stick the pedestal on the base, attach the bracket to the deck and wherever it hits the post, I'll drill and tap it for #8 machine screws. Simple idea but it will work and everything detaches and stows when not needed.