Has anyone ever bought a new hull and added your older motor to it. I have a good Yamaha pro v 150, but my transom on my skeeter is shot. All thoughts would be appreciated.

Can't say I have but why not? They completely separate the boat and motor title/price wise so you should have no issues shopping them as independent of one another... might have to wait for one to be delivered, as I doubt they will want to provide the free labor to remove the motor you aren't buying on one that is already installed... but not 100% certain. Give a dealer a call maybe though, I bet they will be happy to answer your questions.

I had a bad transom on my boat and used a pourable transom to replace it. Cost me about $300 and made it hard as a rock. Not hard to do just clean out old wood and mix two chemicals and pour. If your old boat is worth saving then get hold of me and I can give you more info. It was a one weekend job.

Heard of the opposite, putting new motor on old hull... bet somebody will work with you

Don't know if I would buy brand new and put an old motor on, but there are newer boats out there for sale with blown motors you can find reasonably priced and add your motor to.

That said, I do tend to see an odd number of boats being sold on craigslist without motors... always seems to suspect for me to care to look into them further... but sometimes they are at dealers too. There was a very nice charger and a very nice blazer both being sold without power that were great deals

You could go this route and only be out a $4k or so once you add in the cost of swapping your old motor.

http://texasfishingforum.com/forums/ubbt..._3250.00#UNREAD

rigged for merc, not sure on changes required to run the yammy he has, but either way, boat rated for 200hp and needs it, 150 would be a pig on that boat lol

I was under the impression that the transom mix was about 500 for a 5 gallon bucket,In this case I'll need 2 to 3 buckets The boat is still in good shape for an old skeeter. Just the transom has rotted out where the jack plate bolts to the bottom of the boat. What did you use.

http://www.transomrepair.net/product_inf...9648b681bf26446

no prior knowledge of pourable transoms, my first search yielded this as a result though

you think it'll be 15 gallons to redo the transom on the skeeter??

http://www.transomrepairkit.com/
It seems to have gone up to $400. It comes in 2 one gallon cans. Mix equal parts and pour. You can do it in layers so you don't over pour. It sets in 15 minutes so the process goes quick. I have a 15' boat and used maybe one gallon to do the entire transom. Two should be more than enough for your boat.

I looked at the seacast product but it was a little more complicated and expensive. I like the other product because it can be poured even if the transom is wet as water won't interfere. The hardest part of the process is removing your old wood and motor. Mine was completely gone so it wasn't that hard to remove. Be sure that you use a couple of clamps on the transom to keep it's shape from being deformed while it expands.

After you pour and it hardens, it will come out of any holes that you have such as your holes to mount your motor. Just go back with a drill and drill them back out and you are ready to go. It will also seal any other holes that your transom has to make it water tight. I can stand on my transom and have hit a couple of stumps with it and there is no flex at all in it. Even at $400 it is a good deal if the boat is still good. It also adds floatation to your boat.

I'd have no fears of buying a boat with a bad transom now if it was a really good deal since I know how easy it is to repair one now. There is a calculator on their site to figure out how much you need.

How could you have looked at the seacast and found it more expensive? Looks to me like a 5gal transom kit is $200 that I just shared and you are saying the one you mention is twice that for 2 gallons?

Also, whether water "interferes" or not with the curing is irrelevant as any water would obviously be displacing contact with the fiberglass it is supposed to be bonding with so being dry would be preferred either way I imagine?

First of all, when I purchased, prices were different. My kit cost me around $200 and seacast was much more than $200. Then there is shipping. Obviously it costs less to ship 2 gallons than the 5.
As far as water being irrelevant, is not something that I made up. The product that I used stayed that water would not interfere with the process. Seacast started the opposite and that it had to be completely dry for their product to work. Yes, starting with a perfectly dry area would be ideal but there is a lot of dampness in there and I felt much more comfortable knowing that if I did not get rid of 100 percent of it, it would not effect the outcome.

I also did more research on both products before I chose which one to use. I selected the one that in my opinion was the easiest and best solution for me. They are not the same product with different names. I decided from my research that the one that bonded with the fiberglass was best for my situation. The results that I achieved were more than satisfactory for me. If I remember correctly, it required much more of one brand to equal the other also.

I have no skin in the game for either product but I do have experience in a pourable transom. I was simply trying to give him an option of keeping his boat rather than searching for another one. If you would rather that he uses your recommendation them that is fine with me.

I had a very similar situation around 1999. I had a Skeeter with a Pro V 150. The boats transom had gone out and I had paid to have it fixed. Then a few years later the hull separated from the stringers. I lived close to the Skeeter factory and they told me both times they would do nothing for the boat that was only about 8 years old. I bought a 19 foot Xpress and put the 150 on it. I ran that boat for over ten years and really enjoyed it. Fished pretty good and performance was good for a 150. I know the price of an Xpress is more than it used to be because the price of aluminum has gone up. May still be a good option for you.

Sounds like a plan but it is absolutely backwards from "normal practice". Lots of people repower their used boats because the boat is good but the motor is used up. You say "new boat" and the only problem I see would be resale although your thinking probably doesn't include ever selling. It would be hard to market a used boat with a much older motor. I would be inclined to look for the clean used boat without a motor.