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Bait tank #10943614 06/27/15 06:29 PM
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Eric BBQMAN Offline OP
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I recently converted an old freezer to a tank. I put a 400 gph pump on it to recirculate and keep it oxygenated. The water goes into 5 gallon bucket with holes drilled in it. I have not put any filter stuff in it yet. I am using city water, but I let it sit for 24 hrs before adding fish. I put around 12 gills in it and they all died some the next day,and some made it 4 days. What should I do differently next time? Do I need to drain the water thats in it and start over?

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Re: Bait tank [Re: Eric BBQMAN] #10943620 06/27/15 06:34 PM
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ssfireman Offline
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water conditioner. the chlorine will kill fish.


The gene pool could use a little chlorine.
Re: Bait tank [Re: Eric BBQMAN] #10943636 06/27/15 06:53 PM
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Eric BBQMAN Offline OP
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Any certain type of conditioner?

Re: Bait tank [Re: Eric BBQMAN] #10943643 06/27/15 06:59 PM
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deep fried Offline
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some water depts. use chlordane instead of chlorine. It won't go away by letting it set like chlorine and some of the products won't take it out like chlorine.


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Re: Bait tank [Re: Eric BBQMAN] #10943667 06/27/15 07:20 PM
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Eric BBQMAN Offline OP
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Yeah, I may just transport some pond water.

Re: Bait tank [Re: Eric BBQMAN] #10943676 06/27/15 07:25 PM
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Novaqua from pet store is what I use for shad. Find it in the fish aquarium section. It works great. I usually put it in the water about an hour before I add bait fish or head to the lake

Re: Bait tank [Re: Eric BBQMAN] #10943913 06/27/15 10:03 PM
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Moose364 Offline
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You can pick up stuff to remove the chlorine at Wally world in the pet section, if they are still dyeing after that your PH maybe to high, our city water PH is at around 9 ppm and will kill fish fast, put some charcoal in your bucket, it can be anything from store charcoal to burning some wood out in the backyard fire pit when the wood gets good and black all the way through, put the fire out and let cool then throw it in your bucket, it will remove all the toxins from the water that the fish make like ammonia and with a little work and some engineering you can make a filter from a AC filter


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Re: Bait tank [Re: Eric BBQMAN] #10944054 06/28/15 12:08 AM
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OPTIMUS PRIME Offline
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Add oxygen aerator.

Re: Bait tank [Re: Eric BBQMAN] #10947159 06/29/15 08:24 PM
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Vess Offline
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You have to figure out how much water in gallons that you are putting in the whole system. Then you need a pump that moves the entire volume of your water 5 times,low side 10 times ideal the total volume. Then you have to regulate the temp and keep it from rapid changes. Make sure your filter material is removing waste off the top of the water as well as the bottom too. And also there own scales too.

But buying a system that's turn key like a grayling tank is putting the odds in your favor. So far I have been able to keep some big shad alive a week in 80+ weather. But mostly treat my city water with one cup of salt per gallon and chlorine remover. And keep the foam off on hand too


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Re: Bait tank [Re: Eric BBQMAN] #10947374 06/29/15 09:56 PM
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If you treat it, you can use the water hose. I can't remember the name of the stuff I used but there was a blue powder that I put 3 scoops in and a white powder that used like 5 scoops. I had a big tank though. The powders were like 49.99 each I think.

Re: Bait tank [Re: Eric BBQMAN] #10947707 06/30/15 01:07 AM
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Think you meant chloramine instead of chlordane deep fried. Try this if you can't get pond water.
Filtration

A charcoal filter is designed to strip your tap water of chlorine and chloramine, block carbon filters are necessary for effective removal.

Pros:

Fast, nearly as fast as your free-running tap
Removes both chlorine and chloramine
Cons:

Filters last roughly 2-6 months depending on water usage and cost between $5 and $30+ dollars to replace depending on the system.
Some charcoal filters need to have water running through them for about 5-10 minutes before being used when replaced. This clears out any charcoal dust that may have been generated during shipment.

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