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Who uses a drying wheel for D2T? #10894049 06/04/15 03:44 AM
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Txmedic033 Offline OP
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I finally started using D2T and I feel like it would benefit from being on a drying wheel to keep the epoxy from settling. I already secured a motor out of an old microwave to make one. I would just like to make one that looks more like a fly drying wheel vs a large rotisserie. I was looking for any insight or plans before I made one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re: Who uses a drying wheel for D2T? [Re: Txmedic033] #10894166 06/04/15 05:29 AM
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Bradshuflin aka hunter'sdad Offline
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Wish I could give you some feedback on this topic, but I don't use enough d2t to have one I have had some ideas about building a drying box with a wheel inside it.

Re: Who uses a drying wheel for D2T? [Re: Txmedic033] #10894374 06/04/15 12:49 PM
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Bois d'arc Offline
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Check out the "tips and tricks" post for an easy to build wheel. Larger wheel holds more and heavier baits...fly dryer not so much....and yes it helps to have a wheel with D2T finishes. I use this fly dryer for D2T lure finishes:
Works great for 5-6 small to medium sized lures at a time. Not so good for large deep divers...only 3 at a time. Spin for about 15 to 20 minutes so the D2T can level and set, then hang tail down to completely dry. When using alcohol to thin D2T mix the two parts first then after stirring add the alcohol and re-stir. Alcohol tends to bond to one part and will result in sticky lures if not mixed in after both hardener and resin are thoroughly mixed. Hope this helps texas

Re: Who uses a drying wheel for D2T? [Re: Txmedic033] #10894390 06/04/15 12:59 PM
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RiveraTackleCo. Offline
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Originally Posted By: Txmedic033
I finally started using D2T and I feel like it would benefit from being on a drying wheel to keep the epoxy from settling. I already secured a motor out of an old microwave to make one. I would just like to make one that looks more like a fly drying wheel vs a large rotisserie. I was looking for any insight or plans before I made one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


the only time you need a drying wheel is if you are brushing the Devcon too thick(not necessary). Try to brush on the least amount possible. Also, thinning is not necessary. Just ensure the Devcon is room temp...I keep mine in the garage right now so that if i use it it is very thin. In the winter time i use my heat gun to warm up a bit and keep it from thickening up.


uno uno seis
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Re: Who uses a drying wheel for D2T? [Re: Txmedic033] #10897128 06/05/15 01:35 PM
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Bois d'arc Offline
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Found this document online.....just about covers everything related to epoxy finishes.


EPOXY CLEARCOATING: just for an extra HELP note, if you're thinking of using EPOXY clearcoats please read on:

Epoxies are difficult coatings but well worth the effort.. Most lure buyers prefer & even demand epoxy coatings on their lures or they wont buy your product.. If you clearcoat an item with epoxy, make certain it cures 100%!!!.. Generally a semi -thick coating is needed for fishing lures.. Tho the word thick can be decieving as we are talking about 1/128" -1/64" as being thick!.. 2-3 times the thickness of a sheet of paper(2-3mil) is usually sufficient.. Acheive this thru multiple layers not one nasty thick coat!.. 3-5 thin layers is better than one thick coat that will never cure.. A heat lamp helps also.. I apply 3-5 thin coats over a 3 day period then leave cure for 2-3 days before attempting to install hardware.. I also made a rotating drying wheel to make the coating dry even & smooth, which is a MUST for epoxy..

USING EPOXY: I've tried many products, Top Secret, Nu-Lustre55, Devcon 2 Ton, and others.. I stuck with Devcon 2 Ton, also known as D2T.. Devcon makes several epoxy products, most are fast drying, 5 mins or less! ( too short of a pot life ) and nearly useless as they set-up too quickly to be properly applied.. However, D2T has a 15 min pot life so you have more time to mix & apply.. Epoxy should be applied in temp ranges of 70f-80f.. It it is too thick just warm it up a little( place epoxy tube in a pan of hot water ) or thin mildly with acetone or denatured alcohol.. I prefer denatured alcohol myself.. Rotate freshly coated lures for 30 mins then hang the lure for 3 hrs.. Dry to touch at that point, but I dont consider handling or attaching hardware for at least 12 hrs.. Use disposable brushes for applying the epoxy or your fingers protected with surgical gloves for application works great, my preferred method..

If you get air bubbles in the wet epoxy coating which definitely will happen: huff your breathe on small areas of the lure until you have huffed the entire lure surface.. Just like when you want to steam up a mirror or window with your breathe.. This will pop the air bubbles.. Some insist its the carbon, others say its the heat.. You can use heat lamps to expedite drying the epoxy or just let it go at room temps above 70f..

ROTATING DRYING MACHINE: These can be made in many ways, but they should be slow rotators, in the 3-6rpm range.. Ive used Christmas light display rotators, motors off used BBQ rotisseries, and most recently made a heavy duty rotator for large Musky-Saltwater lures from a 1750rpm motor with twin gear reducer units mounted in tandem.. But most luremakers dont need such an elaborate setup as that!.. Attach alligator clips or similar holding clips to a wood or metal wheel.. Wheel attached to shaft.. Screw luremaking eye screws in the lure body to use as paint sticks.. Put the screw eyes in the alligator clips to hold lure on the wheel.. Quite simple..

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