Has anyone converted a single jet ski trailer into a double kayak trailer? Checked online and could not find a good example. FYI would be caring two PA 12�s. Pics would be great.

heres an idea, its a little homeade looking and could be done better but its a start. found it online some one loves unistrut.

lots of pics online most seem to use the T-bar configuration i know this isnt a jetski trailer but seems easy to add the T shaped bars

Looks doable, THamks!

22 pages of kayak trailers and mods.

Probably one of the better examples I've seen. No welding, just bolt it on like an erector set!
Check your metal salvage yards! We used the stuff in aircraft maintainance, and the salvage yards were full of it for cheap.

Cut the extensions off to reduce the wind drag. I will make an I frame that will be removable to use when needing to carry more than 1 yak. It is a work in progress.

Really good under belly storage

This is how I set it up when the thought of a 16' yak was in my future, put on a long tongue which has been removed. The wood is cedar and very light, will make a wind reflector to reduce wind drag. It is aluminum and weights under 300lbs with the 2 yaks and tows very well. * note * I just set the tan yak on top get the weight.
It is for sale as we have reduced our available towing horsepower and would like to purchase a Yakima. Would let it go for $500 with the tongue extension and bolts that were taken off, delivery can be discussed.

Roger and I bought a trailer with those cantilever arms and tried to put the PAs on it side by side. No bueno... You need some kind of support to the frame on the outside of the flat bars IMO. We didn't even take it out of the driveway and sold it shortly thereafter. Ours was a factory kayak trailer. If you built it up yourself, you could use some heavier tubing, and weld it or have it welded (I know a guy...). Bolting is convenient, but significantly weaker, and introduces numerous points of failure.

I only bring these things up because the OP said he's hauling two PAs. They're heavy, in case y'all weren't aware...

Thanks guys you have given me some good advise to ponder.

Pro Anglers weigh 110# so lets just round it off to 250# to be on the safe side.
There are people that weigh more than that so it's not like you are carrying a fiberglass boat on a rack. Most boat trailer axles are attached to the springs with bolts, so welds aren't the end all.
Build it with that weight in mind and either bolted or welded you have to build it to hold that amount of weight. Which is better? Just depends on how sturdy the construction is. I've seen some poorly constructed welding jobs as well.

I used to do a lot a welding and stress over time will cause cracks but usually right next to the weld, if its something that is going to be permanent and not adjustable and it will take a lot a stress I say use grade 10 or 8 bolts with red locktite on the threads and weld it that way if the weld breaks the bolts will still hold it.

I agree, once a welded area is stressed from constant flexing you get metal fatigue and a catastrophic failure can occur whereas a bolted joint you just need to wrench and tighten it up. (trailers especially, flex a lot) Probably why most carports, and vehicles you drive everyday as well as the bridges you drive across every day are bolted together. It's not so much the weld making it stronger, but the design and construction that counts the most whether it is welded or bolted you have to build it to take the stresses that it may incur.

Whatever, I'm not saying some stuff shouldn't be bolted together.. I was sharing my experience with a factory kayak trailer that would not take the weight of a PA on the frame supporting the boat. My point was I wouldn't trust a PA on a cantilevered piece of typical kayak trailer material. I'm not guessing, it didn't work.

Designed correctly a welded trailer will be stronger and more reliable. I do agree some stuff should be bolted but only for adjustability. If bolts were better for structural joints all normal size trailers would bolt together. Damage only occurs due to poor design or overstressing. Normal road vibration should never damage trailer. Imo. I am a metal fabricator.

The trailer Hank and I had was a factory built magneta and pretty nice trailer....but as he said, a bit small and flexy for hauling 2 PA's. We just weren't comfortable having the boats hanging off the sides like it was. However, I can say it was definitely a quality trailer - just not the right tool for the job. I think the cantilever supports such as what I added to marcus' pic are critical as well as just making sure you right-size the supports to begin with and good connection - welded plates and triangulation would be my choice. I didn't FEA this design so don't hold me responsible.